FROM THE GASTRONOMY DIARIES
My essay in progress on the great Michelin Guides’ “stumbling performance” in Asia has many examples to point to across the region, of both inappropriate recommendations and inexcusable omissions. I say this with great respect to Michelin as it was a formative influence, in the days when it existed only in France and there were but 11 three-star establishments in the world, all in the same country. Its discernment then was clear-eyed, exquisite and on point, an epitome of Gallic rigour. Since then, expansion and modernity have taken something of a toll.
For our frequent travellers, restaurant buffs and real gastronomes, here are two omissions, in favoured and wonderful destinations: Osaka and Lisbon.
Quintocanto, Osaka
Of course, there are many Australians who adore Japan and are avid repeat visitors. Along with its many other inducements, this great city offers a culinary treat par excellence. It is not often that one meets a true culinary genius, as opposed to the latest “rock star” chef, but here is one: A 32-year-old mostly self-taught wizard. As some know, there are a handful of fine chefs in Tokyo and Osaka who have long been smitten by the concept of an Italian x Japanese fusion. Quintocento, now in business for 10 years under the same chef/owner (since age 22!), takes this concept to the highest level. The 10-course degustation is an adventure of singular skill and imagination combined with the finest ingredients from both Italy and Japan. This restaurant’s performance over two visits makes it in my humble opinion a two-star Michelin, and well ahead of others so awarded in that city.
BAHR, Lisbon
Portugal, too, is on many people’s lists, and justifiably: it is one of Europe’s most energising and romantic cities. Indeed, a decent number of expats from elsewhere in Europe and the US have chosen to relocate there in recent years. Its much vaunted culinary reputation is, though, a bit overdone, based on a sample of ten. Yes, there is some marvellous cooking of the ubiquitous codfish, and so on – but the upper reaches of gastronomy are still largely empty.
Barrio Alto Hotel Restaurant (abbreviated to BAHR) is the exception. It sits on the top floor of this elegant large boutique – pricey, but beautifully located and most agreeable. The restaurant is superior in its re-imagination of an haute Portuguese cuisine, without the increasingly common “tricked up” effects found in so many one-star Michelin restaurants: it is simple, original and effective. Remarkably everything on the menu succeeds in marrying, unusually, elements of health, very fine preparation, and taste – an aspect seemingly ignored often enough these days in the quest for “sculptural presentation” or somesuch. Menu standouts include filet of Turbot with Kale sauce, pot au feu of baby black pig, and the finest dessert I have ever tasted , an Italian meringue with citronnelle infusion. Based on four consecutive visits, this is surely an outstanding one-star Michelin awaiting its star.
